My second go at this gruelling Marathon

Yukon Arctic Ultra, 2004

My race in the Yukon in 2004 wasn't my most successful. I pulled out at the 100 mile mark with chronic foot pains whilst being 8 hours up on last years time at the same point. In light of this DNF I never got round to writing up a diary - but my mate Andrew, who went on to win the race wrote the following report. It makes good reading ......

Andrew Barnett's report

Well, here goes, my first attempt at a race report. In it I will attempt to describe my feelings before, during and after the race.

I should really start with the 2003 race. Words cannot describe my disappointment at having to pull out of the race whilst in a commanding lead. I had raced in Alaska in the Iditasport 130 in 2001 and on that performance had hoped to do reasonably well in Robert's new race. I remember at the pre-race meeting in the same room last year in the High Country Inn feeling fairly insignificant amongst a field of athletes who had nearly all had more ultra race experience than me. Stories of people having completed races that I had never even heard of filled me with admiration but also intimidated me. I had gone to Whitehorse hoping to cover 50 miles a day and so finish the race in considerably less than the 8 day limit but suddenly I thought that my target was unrealistic as other athletes spoke of a desire just to complete the course. Was I being over ambitious for a relative rookie? Only time would tell.

I started suffering with painful shins after only about 30 miles last year and subsequently decided I could not continue after Braeburn, the 100 mile finish.. However after thinking about everybody's advice on not quitting on an empty stomach and without having a rest I ate a huge meal, stuffed myself with pain killers and slept for 4 hours. I continued as far as Carmacks at 180 miles but having made myself ill by taking too many painkillers and still suffering extreme pain in both legs with every step I could not go on. I quit whilst 11 hours in the lead which made the decision even more painful.

People said I had pushed too hard in the early stages of the race. People said I should have slowed down. People can say what they like but I knew that my pace was comfortable and apart from my injuries I felt strong when I had to stop. I had to return to the YAU this year to finish the job. On last years experience I knew I could do it in 6 days or less.

So to Whitehorse this year. My confidence took a dive on more than one occasion. First when Robert pointed out some of the other competitors - endurance record holders, professional triathletes, top ranked finishers in the MDS etc etc. I thought I had prepared well. Training had gone according to plan and I had worked my legs harder this year than last so I must be fit...surely. The second knock to my confidence came when viewing other competitors' equipment lists. Although I knew from previous experience what works best for me I was aghast when fellow athletes were asking me which particular brand of energy drink I was using, what about electrolytes, how about balancing carbohydrates and fats? My solution is to keep it simple. Drink water, eat as much as possible at the checkpoints and nibble on some sugary or fatty snacks on the trail. They laughed at my fruit pastilles and cashew nuts. I didn't care!

The pre race meeting was similar to last year's. I thought that the safety cover had been carefully thought about. Perfectly reasonable to charge for evacuation off the course. Brilliant idea to provide extra insurance cover at low cost for possible air evacuation (the possibility had never even occurred to me). We all enter these races because we enjoy an element of risk. If we didn't we would race for 8 days around the local Wallmart cold store so it was pleasing to know that our safety is of paramount importance to the race organisers. I knew from last years experience just how hard the skidoo riders have to work. I think they do a fantastic job and deserve a big thankyou from all competitors whether they have to take advantage of their support or not.

Race day: nerves as if I've never raced before. I always get nerves before an event but today I was almost shaking with anticipation. All sorts of emotions are running through me. I think of my family at home. They support me whole-heatedly in what I am doing but am I really being fair to them? My training partner and great friend, Martin, who is also about to start the 300 miles too is doing his usual - waiting at the back of the field to cross the line last, cannot be seen. I have to go and wish him luck but I can't see him. He can obviously see me because he calls to me. I go over to him and nearly crack up and can barely speak my good wishes. He has been boosting my confidence for weeks suggesting that I could win the race. I now have serious doubts.

After a bit of messing about with photographers which I could have done without we are finally off. My race plan was to keep a steady pace throughout, not stop between checkpoints and overhaul all the hares who blast off the start with my ability to maintain a reasonably fast pace for up to 15 hours without stopping. The trail on the river was incredibly fast so my anticipated 4 mph for the first stage to the Sir North Ranch, about 22 miles was easily achievable. Shelley shot off as I thought she would but I resisted the temptation to run. I thought before I arrived in Whitehorse that Shelly would be the greatest competition given her incredible time in the 100 last year and her familiarity with the conditions. I would try to keep within 2 or 3 hours of her to Braeburn and then try to overhaul her though my strategy of not stopping between checkpoints between there and Carmacks on the long stages. I overtook Jean Michel as we came onto the Takhini and was amazed when he commented on my pace. He was having to run to keep up with me. He said I was walking like a runner. He called me Andrew The Regulator in his best French/English accent. It made me smile. He used me as his pacer. I didn't mind at all. He pulled into Sir North about 2 or 3 minutes behind me as I was a bit quicker up that nice little hill Robert had added to the course (thanks, mate).

Jean Michel wanted to leave the checkpoint with me after the 4 hours compulsory stop so we agreed the time to go. At the agreed time there was no sign of him so I prepared to leave, was just about to descend the hill when I heard him call me. He would be 2 minutes so I said I would proceed very slowly so he could catch up. I waited on the river for what seemed an eternity but could see no light following me so I continued at my normal pace - this is a race, remember. Very fast again on the river then onto the Dawson trail where I hoped I would catch some other athletes who I knew were on the trail in front of me. I remembered the trail from last year as a long slow hill which is where I am in my element. I love the uphill sections and have often been accused by Martin of going faster uphill than on the flat. I was amazed at how quickly I caught Peter who seemed to be struggling a bit on the hill, and Juan Carlos. I exchanged a few words then forged on to catch Scott with whom I raced for a couple of hours. For the first time in my life I saw the Northern Lights. Not a spectacular show but at least I had seen it. I was thrilled. Lots of animal tracks on the trail now. I commented to Scott about the moose tracks and he made me snap into a state of acute awakeness when he said he thought some of the tracks which I thought were moose were actually bear. Oh S***! Scott was having a few problems with his sled so I pressed on to the Dog Grave Lake checkpoint at about 60 miles. Only Shelley in front now!

Arrived at Dog Grave at 08.09. First priority was food. Attempts to light the stove nearly sent the whole tent up in smoke. I'll eat later! Where's Shelley? Surely she hasn't left already? No, she hadn't arrived yet. Wow! I didn't expect to be leading the field yet. I saw Shelley later, I had walked past her at the 10 mile marker without even seeing her bivi. She had seen me though and commented on my speed. Another one. God, this makes me feel good. I slept for 2 hours by which time Shelley had gone and Jean Michel had passed through (after misplacing his head torch). I saw also Luke and Steve Bowron. Luke wanted to be woken after only 20 minutes sleep. Hell, how can he manage on that much? I must be a wimp. I'll have to buck up my ideas if I am going to beat experienced racers like him.

I ate some of the excellent food and headed out alone at 11.45am . Soon I caught Jean Michel, he was pleased to see his "regulator" again. This time he stuggled to keep with me and may have stopped for a break before Kynocks (about 75 miles) where Shelley had said she was going to bivi. When I passed Kynocks I saw no bivis but soon after decided that as the sun was shining brilliantly, the trail was beautiful and I just wanted to appreciate the moment I would stop and have a hot drink. This would be the only time I used my stove apart from at Sir North. I actually stopped for about 40 minutes enjoying the scene. Andy came past on his skis and Jean Michel appeared just as I was moving again. Sleep deprivation, my biggest enemy started to take effect on this stage. Jean Michel offered me some remedy but it made little or no difference. Passed Shelley who was just settling in to her bivi with about 14 miles to go to Braeburn. The temperature must have been dropping now as my hands were getting cold. I couldn't believe my luck when we came across a fire on the side of the trail so 10 minutes warming hands over the fire were very welcome. I knew that the last 5 or 6 miles into Braeburn were a long slog through the forest and it seemed like the lake was never going to appear. Finally I saw Gary 's fire and happily dropped down on to the lake, wary of the overflow. A great moment for the batteries in my head torch to give up. I crossed the lake and hope Jean Michel was just behind me to light up the trail through the woods for the last mile or so but I saw his light appear on the lake just as I left it. I carried on without the light and entered Braeburn at 11.29pm , about 7 hours faster than last year, 36 hours for the first 100 miles.

I caught up on the news. An ambulance was waiting for Tom, Shirley had hypothermia, Wilco has breathing problems and somebody else wants to be evacuated. I'm glad I'm OK! A good meal and 3 ½ hours sleep, more food and drink and I leave at 05.33 expecting to take 15 hours to reach Fred Lake . Or is it Frank Lake . Or Ken Lake . Who cares! It is at least 45 miles despite what the stated mileage says. I now know that I was 4 hours in front of Shelly now, just where I wanted to be. I thought I could build on that so that even if she runs the last 60 miles I should stay in front. After what I thought was about 18 miles I stopped for a hot drink. Murray came along on his skidoo. "You're about half way" he suggested but I said I thought the stage was longer than he thought. He consulted his papers and confirmed that the stage was 36 miles. I was sceptical. Off he went. Sure enough after about another 8 or 10 miles I passed the 10 mile marker. No way, I thought and carried on. About 5 more miles down the trail I met Murray coming back. Was I right? Yes, he was on his way to retrieve the marker and place it at the actual 10 mile mark. He had measured the stage at 45 miles, with 40 miles on to Carmacks. No problem! I was feeling strong. He told me that the wind was picking up on the lakes. This did not disturb me as far as temperature was concerned but I knew that if the trail is filled in with blowing snow it makes the going a lot tougher. Soon after I hit the lakes Sven caught me and overtook on his bike, moaning about the terrain. Soon I caught him again, pushing his bike in the blowing snow. Murray passed us with 8 miles to go, having picked up my face mask which I had dropped on the trail. I gratefully put it on, and my goggles as the wind was now quite biting. For about 2 miles I was reminded of some of my training. The snow was blowing on to the trail making it difficult to see where to step. A foot either side of the trail and the snow was knee deep. The sled was getting heavier and heavier in the soft snow, just like the tyre I had been dragging around the forests at home in training. Pace slowed considerably for about 2 miles then picked up again when we got on to Ken lake, Sven having tucked in behind me, pushing the bike. Lots of overflow on Ken Lake and I was pleased to see the lights of the cabin with about a mile to go. A nasty little hill to get up to the checkpoint where I arrived at 20.40, virtually spot on the 15 hours I had allowed. The guy who was at the cabin last year was there and had been fishing. They had just cooked up a trout...delicious. I was unbelievably annoyed at the thought of having to bivi out and not sleep on one of the bunks but having filled my belly, dried my clothes and settled down next to the fire I was incredibly warm and comfortable. Lazlo was already in and in his bivi when we arrived. How could I catch him as he should, I thought be quicker on skis?

My shoes froze solid while I slept and I spent 20 minutes or so lying in my sleeping bag turning my shoes in front of the fire before I emerged for breakfast before departing at 02.15. This stop was an hour longer than I had planned but what the hell, I'm in front of the field. The temperature as I left was about -23C, comfortable enough to be wearing just a base layer and windproof top, as I had for most of the race so far. An easy section across lakes and then the long Mandanna Lake. At the end of Mandanna I see that Lazlo is behind, his light showing about a mile back across Mandanna. I guessed it wasn't Sven on his bike because he was still asleep when I left and he had said that he was quitting at Carmacks because the going was unsuitable for the bike. A nice section of trail through the woods then on to the river at dawn. Suddenly for the first time I felt a bit cold. My thermometer reads 33 below. No wonder I feel a bit cold. I stop to put on an extra layer and emerge on to the river, grateful that the detour we took up the side of Mount Everest last year is not now necessary. Beautiful sun rise. I stop for a hot drink and to take a photo when I hear Lazlo coming towards me. We chat for a while, take photos with each other's cameras and he explains why he is unable to ski on the soft snow. It must be infuriating for him but as ever he is smiling. An hour later further down the river when we are talking he says that my nose is frozen. I say that it can't be as it feels ok but he assures me that it is white. I cover it up and think how lucky I am that he was there to spot it. Beautiful sunshine, beautiful trail on the river and through the woods and before long we emerge on to Coal Mine Lake. Nearly at Carmacks and the shower that I have been longing to take. The smell emerging from my clothes is even revolting me now! Drop down on to the river and we can see Carmacks. The film crews seem particularly anxious to photograph us as we move along the last part of the river. It seems that lots of ice had accumulated on our faces which was fascinating them. Carmacks at 13.50, 8 hours faster than last year.

Now a great shock. Martin burst out of the checkpoint to greet us. What the hell was he doing here? He had had terrible pains in his feet before Braeburn and had to pull out. I knew that for him to do so it must have been serious as he is about as tough as they come. Only once before had I seen him in pain sufficient enough for him to call a halt to a training session so I knew that he must have been suffering. I felt devastated for him. How ironic. This time last year I met him at this checkpoint having given up myself. Now he knows how I felt. He was a brilliant aide at the checkpoint. He sorted out all the food, sleeping arrangements and more importantly my long awaited shower! He filled me in on other racers' progress. Steve Bowron had threatened to give up and I was so pleased that he hadn't. He also failed at the distance last year and had returned to finish the job. I hoped he would finish. Martin also suggested that Shelley was tiring and was not likely to stage a late rush to win the race. Music to my ears! I slept for 2 or 3 hours and woke up to fried chicken and mojos for breakfast! Fantastic!

Out again at 19.50, again an hour longer than I had intended to rest but had I got the race under control? Photographs outside the checkpoint then back on to the river for a mile or so, left up a tributary then onto the road for a long climb out of Carmacks. This was probably my favourite part of the course. I have mentioned before that I like going up hill and this seemed to go up hill for about 25 miles! Lazlo overtook me on his skis as the long climb started. He was flying and I shouted my good wishes as he passed. I did not think I would see him again. I managed to sit on my sled for a couple of short downhill sections but was looking forward to what must be a long downhill ride back down to the river. Unfortunately it never appeared. I was puzzled at how I could be climbing for such a long time up from Carmacks, knowing that McCabe Creek was on the river, about 38 miles downstream from Carmacks! It started snowing while I was on this section. The going became a little slower on the soft snow but I was sure I was still maintaining a good 3 miles an hour. After about 10 hours I saw a light ahead. I couldn't believe my eyes. It soon disappeared down a hill. I stopped for some hot chocolate and restarted after about 15 minutes quite refreshed. I could remember that the run in to McCabe was a long straight through some trees. I caught Lazlo on this straight and we walked together into McCabe at 09.50.

We were shown great hospitality by the hosts at McCabe and slept well in the workshop, pleased to be able to dry our kit once the stove started giving out some heat. The temperature inside the workshop when we entered was -8C! Martin and Robert appeared before we left and told us that the trail was well marked to Pelly and Martin would be waiting for us there. More food in the main house the departed at 16.15, again a longer than planned stop.

A very fast section along the road for about 8 or 9 miles. The temperature when we left was only about 10 below so I was soon sweating profusely. Off the road after 2 hours onto a trail which had been covered with about 2" of soft snow. The going was quite tough and I continued to sweat. Lazlo was behind, moaning about the soft snow. We could do nothing about it so just kept going. An hour later I found that my water had frozen. This was the first time this had happened. I thought it would thaw with my body heat but after another hour it still hadn't. I stopped to move it next to my skin. I had to remove my windproof first. There was a lot of ice inside this layer and my base layer was wet. My gloves were also wet. I put the water against my body, put my base layer back on, shook the ice off my windproof, put my hands back into my wet gloves and continued, thinking that the work being done on the soft snow would soon warm me up again. An hour later the temperature had dropped considerably, my thermometer reading 30 below. I had to drink but my water was still frozen. I had a flask of hot water in my sled. I found it difficult to release the top of the flask with my gloves on as I could not grip it. I took my gloves off, released the top, had a good drink and packed it all away again. Time to get out some dry gloves. My left hand slipped into the glove ok but my right hand didn't want to. I tried again but 2 of my fingers were getting caught. I could not understand why. I pulled the glove off again and found that 2 of my fingers were stiff with cold. The significance of this did not occur to me. I pulled the glove over my fingers and thought that I would be able to warm them up whilst on the move. I indicated for Lazlo to take the lead to break the trail for a while. His pace was slightly slower than mine so I was not working quite as hard. I was curling and straightening my fingers with every movement of my walking pole and eventually thought that all was well as my hands no longer felt cold.

Although I had not seen this part of the trail before it all seemed familiar. In an uncanny way I seemed to know what was around every corner. I had seen the last 6 miles or so of the section last year from the back of a skidoo but I recognised all of it. Maybe I had dreamt it all. I was pleased to see the lights of Pelly but knew that it was still quite a long way from the point where we saw the lights. We woke Martin at 3.00, a good 11 hours after leaving McCabe. Still doing 3 mph. Not bad!

Only now did I discover the frost-bite. On my right hand one finger was completely white, frozen solid to the base, one finger white from the second joint to the tip and two fingers and the thumb tip were white, on my left hand one finger was white to the second joint and one just the top joint and all the other tips white. I warmed them slowly!

Martin prepared us some good food, had bought orange juice and coke as we had asked but there was no sign of the beer! We insisted that it should be there for the finish!

A good sleep again, after a welcome shower. More food and then I changed the batteries in my head torch. We left at 09.45, Lazlo stopped at the gas station to phone home so I went slowly on down to the river with Martin. Lazlo would catch up. Within 30 seconds of Martin disappearing back towards the cabin I realised that I had left my head torch behind. I waited for Lazlo and decided that as he had a torch and we expected to cover this section of 30 miles along the river in about 10 hours we would manage with just his light. We should reach Pelly Farm by about 8 o'clock so only an hour or so in the dark. The trail back is all on the farm road so I would not really need a light there.

The trail on the river also had not been broken and soft snow slowed our progress somewhat. I didn't care. I thought that I would win the race which was exactly what I had come over to do so it didn't matter if my time was not quite as fast as I had hoped it would be. We kept up a steady pace and were quite pleased to see a couple of moose on the side of the river. I had been anxious to see a moose since Martin and I went to Alaska and this was the first I had seen. They seemed more nervous of us than I may have been of them and they veered off the river after a few hundred yards. I knew that Pelly Farm was on the right bank of the river and at about 8 o'clock was pleased to see a bright light emerging from the bank at the end of a long bend in the river. Great, not long to the farm now. The light grew brighter, green in colour as we approached, but it didn't seem to get any closer. Then it disappeared. Northern Lights again! I laughed at myself for thinking that a checkpoint would be lit with a green light. I wasn't too upset that we hadn't reached the farm, it couldn't be much further now. Sure enough at 8.45 we saw the lights at the farm. We followed the trail along until we were going past the lights. There was no trail broken across the river, about 150 yards to the farm. We stopped and discussed the situation. I shouted across the river in a vain hope that someone would hear and point us in the right direction. Sure enough my shout brought an immediate response, Dale shouted back for us to head for the lights which we did in snow up to our thighs. We saw a light approaching us and Dale came across to meet us and immediately put my head torch in my hand. Martin had been out to the farm and asked him to give it to me when we arrived. He led us across the river and we entered the farm at 21.10.

When on the trail my mind wanders all over the place. I dream of things at home, holidays and particularly of items of food that I know I cannot have. I would have killed for an orange or any other piece of fruit about 6 hours out from Pelly. We had been given beef stew, chilli, chowder, chicken and various other foods so far. I really wanted some lasagne. It was all I could think of. I was desperate for lasagne.

Dale invited us into his house and introduced the family. Hot tea was very welcome. He took away all of our damp clothes. Finally, something to eat? What would we like, lasagne or moose stew? Heaven! After a generous helping of both we retired to bed, saying that we would rise again at 2.30 to leave by 4.00. Dale instructed all of his daughters to rise at 2.30am to cook our breakfast. This hospitality is almost embarrassing, but I didn't complain. A wonderful breakfast of pancakes and eggs, toast and plenty of coffee set us up nicely for the final 30 miles along the road.

Dale was concerned about my fingers. They had blistered badly by now and parts had turned black. He insisted on putting my gloves in his oven before we left to extract any moisture left in them. He also wanted to give me extra mitts. I was embarrassed by his concern for a complete stranger. It typified the hospitality he had shown us.

We left at 04.20 and stormed up the hill rising from the farm for nearly 2,000 feet. We were delighted to be able to ride our sleds on some of the downhill stretches though I did find that I quickly got cold when hurtling down the hills, and it took a few hundred yards to get back into a good walking rhythm every time we stopped due to the now quite painful feet. Dale's wife passed us at about 7.00am on her way to work at the health centre in Pelly. She said she would arrange for somebody to be waiting at the cabin to look at my hands when we finished. She insisted on taking my gloves and giving me Dale's dry mitts. Lazlo dropped some hand warmers into the mitts.

Robert and Martin came out to meet us at 9.00 with some very welcome hot coffee. I felt very tired all of a sudden and would happily have fallen into the back of Robert's truck if he had offered. Still, only about 16 miles to go. The sun was shining brilliantly on this last section so I wanted to just enjoy it. My weariness deserted me at about 11.00am as the thought of finishing approached. After we passed a point at about 4 miles out where the road commands a magnificent view back across the river I started to feel fantastic. All the training had been worthwhile. I was going to achieve my goal. I was going to win the race. 300 miles..everybody at home said I was crazy. Maybe I am but it seems I'm also fit enough to race and beat a lot of other very fit and crazy guys. A great feeling.

Skidoos approached us. I knew there was not far to go. I handed over my camera to Martin to take a few snaps of Lazlo and I approaching the finish. We saw them a couple more times before we approached Pelly Bridge then they disappeared. On to the bridge and we could see a few people at the finish half a mile away. We passed a few athletes just leaving Pelly to go to Pelly Farm. I felt sorry for them.they had 60 miles to go, I had only a few yards left. It was great to receive their congratulations and I wished them well on their last sections. Nearly there. I resisted a temptation to run as I wanted to finish with Lazlo. About 50 yards from the finish Lazlo suddenly shouted for a sprint finish so we ran the last bit!

We finished officially at 2.15pm. 6 days, 2 hours 15 minutes. Slower than anticipated but FIRST PLACE

Photographs and filming then I was ushered into the cabin for my hands to be inspected. I pulled off the mitts knowing that I had burst some blisters when I was sledding down the hills. They looked a mess but I just thought that that was the one of the risks I took in participating in the race. They were cleaned up and I was advised to get to a hospital to have them checked thoroughly which I subsequently did. I will not lose any fingers. I may lose some finger nails and some sensitivity long term. Big deal! Writing this a week later my hands are still hurting, I am longing for the remaining blisters to reduce but I can still type in my usual style. 2 fingers, so no worries!

In summary I have enjoyed the Yukon Arctic Experience 2004. I congratulate Robert Pollhammer on his race organisation. This was only the second time the event has been run and if it continues to gain in popularity which it deserves to do I feel sure that Robert will maintain the race's great atmosphere. The hospitality shown to all the racers by the people of Whitehorse and those at the outlying checkpoints was superb.

It should be remembered that this is an adventure race. Adventure means some risk. If all of the risk is eliminated by insisting on over-the-top safety measures it ceases to be an adventure. We all entered the race as adventure seekers, let next years entrants find the same elements of risk. Teach rookies the elements of survival then let them loose. That's why we enter.

Keep up the good work, Robert!

Thanks to my family, Ruth, James and Emily for supporting me in my ventures; to Martin for getting me into these scrapes and for training with me and just being a mate; my friends who put up with my endless talk of these events.